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The Climate Catastrophe in Our Closets: The Flood of Ultra-Cheap Clothing in the Age of Shein and Temu, and the Expansion of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR)

Daniel Jacob Chung
7월 1일
2분 분량

I. Introduction: The Wave of Western "Used Clothing" Engulfing the Beach at Agbogbloshie, Ghana

Agbogbloshie beach, on the outskirts of Accra, the capital of Ghana in West Africa. Once filled with blue water and fine sand, this place has become an immense "graveyard of clothes" and a "slaughterhouse of the ecosystem." Every week, containers packed with millions of discarded garments are imported from the developed world under the euphemism of "donations" or "secondhand clothing." More than half of what arrives, however, is refuse in a state no one could possibly wear, and it accumulates on the beach and in open lots exactly as it lands, forming vast mountains of trash.


Cut into a cross-section of these grotesque mountains and the logos are unmistakable: the global fast-fashion brands we wear casually and discard easily. In particular, the cheap polyester garments consumed through C-commerce — the Chinese ultra-low-cost shopping platforms Shein and Temu, which have risen meteorically in recent years — form a major axis of the heap.


The five-dollar dress, the ten-dollar shirt: cheap enough that wearing them once and throwing them away provokes no guilt at all. Having left the consumer's hands, they are becoming immortal plastic monsters on the beaches of developing Africa. Fabric dragged out by the waves breaks down into microplastics and fills the bellies of fish; incinerated, it releases toxic gases into the air.


Behind this tragedy lurks the ugliest form of environmental distortion that consumer capitalism has ever produced. We must ask: can the overwhelming responsibility for the environmental destruction wrought by fast fashion — produced by the tens of millions of tons each year, blanketing the land and rivers of developing countries on the far side of the world in refuse that will not decay — truly be resolved by moral lectures about "the immorality of consumers who buy too many clothes"? This essay will closely analyze the expansionary structure of ultra-cheap fast fashion, and identify the mechanisms by which transnational corporations evade responsibility by outsourcing the enormous environmental costs generated at the production and distribution stages. It will further point out the fiction of individual-action environmentalism, and propose a realistic solution: introducing Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) into the textile sector through legislation.

 
 
 

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